Going to Market

Established in the 8th century, Toji is one of the oldest temples in Kyoto, and with its five-story pagoda—the tallest in Japan—it is an enduring landmark for the city. Kukai (aka Kobodaishi), one of the most famous monks in Japanese history, was abbot here, and he established it as a center of tantric Buddhism.



I visited Toji last year with Kristen, but on Monday I returned because it was time for the monthly Toji Kobo-san market. There were hundreds and hundreds of stalls running in all directions throughout the huge temple complex and out into the various small streets surrounding the temple.



People came both to shop and pray. A popular icon was Kobodaishi dressed as a pilgrim.



Another was a big image of Yakushi Nyorai, the Medicine Buddha, shrouded in the darkness of a large hall.



There were so many items for sale I could hardly list them all here. Buddhist images competed side by side with pornography, sometimes on the same tarp. There were lots of food, clothing, antiques, toys, crafts, paintings, pottery, and virtually any other item you could think of. This woman is displaying her folk art paintings.



Of course, I was on the lookout for mizuko-related activity. I saw many Jizos for sale, including some mizuko jizos. But the most exciting part of observing some outdoor mizuko kuyo actually taking place amidst the bustle of the market. For instance, a tent was set up in one part of the temple complex, and a priest was continually performing mizuko kuyo while people wandered in, bought mizutoba, and offered them to the Jizo image.



I alternated between research and shopping, though truth be told I didn't buy too much. I wished Kristen were with me, she would have really enjoyed it and made better use of the wares for sale. Here are some women selling really beautiful rolls of brocade cloth.



One of the more unusual items I noticed was this "Buddha cross," with a Japanese Buddha seated on the crossbar of a Christian cross. I have no idea whether it is some sort of syncretic Buddho-Christian mixture, an artifact cooked up to appeal to foriegners, or represents the hidden Christians who used to disguise their Christianity under a Buddhist facade. Although puzzling, I tend to think it is authentic, because it isn't just any Buddha--it is Dainichi Nyorai, the Great Sun Buddha, who represents the totality of the cosmos and is as close as Japanese Buddhism comes to a genuine analog to God in the Western sense.



I considered buying it for my friend Shannon, a Zen priest who's engaged to an Episcopalian priest, since it seemed like a symbol of their relationship. But the young guy selling it wanted more than $300, way too much for me to spend on anything.

A little stream ran through the northern part of the temple, and it was full of happy turtles sunning themselves.



If you lean over and look in the water purposefully, the turtles and fish at most temples will come over and stare back. I think they must be fed by the monks, so they think of humans as friends and potential food-providers. Certainly fish and turtles are thought of in a respectful way, as this statue to a turtle-god (right next to the stream) attests.



The monks, at least, tend to be vegetarian. Not so for sushi-loving laypeople, of course. . .

Nearby, I found yet another mizuko kuyo installation. Yet again, a monk was chanting continually while people prayed and bought miniature stupas to offer to their mizuko.



Another ceremony going on was a goma, a type of fire ceremony. This is an esoteric rite, where the priest burns wooden sticks that destroy people's bad luck. The first one of these I saw was actually performed in a Unitarian-Universalist church on the Upper East Side. I must say, Toji made a more natural venue for the ritual.



As I was winding down from buying and looking, I decided to pay the admission fee and view the treasures of the temple. They have an outstanding collection of twenty-six tantric Buddhist figures. I was also able to get close to the pagoda. It looks even more impressive when you get near.



It was a long, hot, exhausting day. On the ride home I bought a single-serving size bottle of plum wine, the first alcohol I've had on this trip. Nothing drives a man to drink like shopping and Buddhism, apparently.